Performance Intakes

1. Well-ported lower and a bigger throttle body.
These are listed together because they work well together.
This was the first mod done on our test car, and nothing else made such a dramatic difference (The car is FBO and NA now).
About the larger Throttle Body:
The stock ECU responds really well to the extra air, especially at lower RPMs: You’ll notice the biggest change from 1,500 to 3,500RPMs. We used a Ford 80mm Throttle Body and Viser’s adapter.

2. Sleeker intake hose and a drop filter.

This is usually the first mod done by most; and those who have done it know it doesn’t provide much of a gain.
Bottom line; the stock intake box is great! The intake hose could become a restriction if everything else has been upgraded, and a high flow filter is generally a good idea.

We won’t start a war over long tube v. shorties.

Long tubes seem to be the best; shorties sound good and are easier to install.

4. High-flow CATs.

If you’re driving on the road, we recommend staying legal and keeping your CATs on the car.

They restrict the exhaust more than a straight pipe though.

5. Bigger injectors.

This is a controversial suggestion, though it shouldn’t be. Here’s the short of it:

a. The 3.7 comes with 29lb injectors, which is plenty for the stock engine and another 20-30 HP beyond that.

b. If you modded the 3.7 well, you can use extra fuel capacity in the high rpm range.

c. You’ll need a tune if you get bigger injectors.
We used Ford 52lb injectors. This is overkill for an NA 3.7, but they work great with a tune. 35lb injectors are plenty for the NA FBO 3.7.

6. Tune aka Software upgrade.

This Mod could be listed 1st, but we’re listing it here for 2 reasons:

a. A tune is not required with the other bolt-on mods, except an injector upgrade and a fuel change.

b. Waiting to get a tune saves money and time.

7. Change your fuel

A tune is required for this change, which is why it’s listed toward the end. A fuel change helps the most for boosted cars, though it helps a little for NA cars.

Make your car lighter, and performance will improve.

a. Don’t compromise safety by cutting away the frame, etc,. Proceed with caution, as with all these suggestions.

Lowering Rotational Mass is most helpful:

Lightweight flywheel – must be matched with the right clutch.

There’s lots more to be said about each category above. These are just highlights.

Good question, since there’s a ton of aftermarket exhaust systems being sold out there.

The dual 2.5″ pipes are more than enough for the 3.7 V6. The stock dual exhaust system (past the cats) is really well designed:

Our test car still has stock exhaust pipes, resonator, and mufflers.

We also still have the stock intake air box (with an AFE drop filter and an AirAid tube).

Aftermarket Cat-back exhausts (for the 3.7) won’t add power.

They can change the sound though.

If you’re looking for a boost in performance, there are better places to spend money:

-Bigger Throttle body

We focus on the needs of an NA build (Naturally Aspirated). Both the shapes and the surface texture of our bolt-on mods are designed to maximize airflow, velocity; and to mitigate oscillation in the intake:
Our port design vastly improves low and mid-range power, as well as high end power, when combined with a throttle body upgrade.
Our Throttle Body Adapter is specially surfaced to move air thru the transition with almost no resistance.

These two products will make your race car much faster than it’s supposed to be, they’ll make your street car much more drivable, and they’ll even improve your gas mileage, if you can keep your gas pedal off the floor.

Here are some ‘simple’ and effective bolt-ons for the 4.0:

–Viser’s Spacer with blades (it works!)

-BBK 70mm Throttle Body

-Long tube headers

-High flow cats and dual exhaust

-A good tune

-Drop weight, especially rotational mass – forged wheels, aluminum drive shaft, aluminum flywheel, 2-piece rotors, rear seat delete, etc..

Good luck with your build? 4.0s are fun!

If you want to go to the next level with a 4.0, you’d want to talk with a good race mechanic about porting the heads, building a custom intake, changing the cams, rods, and pistons, etc…

I love unusual builds, especially NA builds.

Good luck!

Our founder (Tony) owns and races an S197 V6 Mustang. After doing tons of research, he designed and installed some bolt-on mods for the intake, and they performed much better than expected!

so he decided to share them.

There’s little more to it than that. He wanted to share what he knows to be the best NA bolt-on available to the Ford V6.

Tony is 6’4” 240. The Mustang is one of few American Made rear wheel drive cars he can fit in. That made Mustang an easy choice.
Plus they are great cars!

Ported Lower Intake Manifold for NA Ford V6 3.7, 3.5, & 3.3L

Throttle Body Adapter for NA Ford V6 3.7, 3.5, & 3.3L and 4 Cylinder 1.5, 1.6, 2.0, 2.5L

Throttle Body Spacer for NA Ford 4.0L V6s, L4s, as well as NA 4.6L and 5.4L Ford V8s

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Frequently Asked Questions

Questions Specific to 3.7L Engines

What are the best engine bolt-on type mods for the NA Ford V6?

If you could only add one engine mod to the 3.7, what would it be?

Will larger injectors improve Horsepower?

I have a lower intake that was ported by someone else. Will I get a power increase from your adapter and an 80mm throttle body?

Should I upgrade to 3" Exhaust or is 2.5 enough?

What makes Viser Performance Intakes unique?

General Questions

What engine mods would you suggest for an NA 4.0?

What inspired you to start this little company? Why Ford V6 intake upgrades?

What are the benefits of a high-flow catalytic converter?

What is the impact of changing fuel type on performance?

How does dropping weight affect my car's speed?

Will a lightweight flywheel improve my car's performance?